Sunday, June 24, 2012

Land Raider Ares, part 6



I went into the paint booth last weekend with my trusty Badger airbrush. It's purely used for base coating at the moment. Hopefully I'll be able to hone those skills as I work on some other secret squirrel projects that have yet to start.

Orkhide Shade works okay if its thinned with water, about 60% paint and 40% demineralised water is what I use. It has to be thoroughly shaken and if it's left to sit for a day or so it WILL separate until you're left with dark blue/green ink on the top an a sediment the colour of Camo Green on the bottom. It doesn't reconstitute very well from that point. After making that observation, Camo Green is obviously the natural choice as a drybrush.  I panic bought ten pots of Orkhide Shade as they went out of stock

So I gave the tanks a couple of light coats. Unfortunately an imperfection in the siege shield showed up in painting. I'll have to try and cover it somehow as I don't want to have to redo that area.



I did the drybrushing the other day, then decided last night to fiddle around with the guns while watching Predators. The cured paint and the drybrushing on the siege shield went a long way to hiding that imperfection.

I just heavily drybrushed the assault cannons sponsons, until it was about 70% covered in Boltgun. I like to do the heavy drybrush instead of just painting since it gives a nice texture that the wash clings to. I painted the nozzles of the flamers with TinBitz and the hoses underneath with Hashut Copper, one of the new Layers. I found that paint to be quite lumpy and wondered if I was working with a metallic texture pot. Went on okay though. 



I washed these with Secret Weapon's Soft Body Black, watered down about 40%. The secret weapon wash takes a long time to dry, compared to a thinned GW wash or shade.
After that was dry I went back and lightly drybrushed the boltgun with boltgun metal again. I mixed the TinBitz and Hashut copper about 50/50, heavy on the copper and drybrushed the nozzles, then again very lightly with straight Hashut Copper.



I was asked for a progress picture on a local Facebook page so here's what I did. I just push fitted things together. The sponson fell off about half a second after the picture was taken lol

2 comments:

  1. Check this out http://www.robart.com/products/hobby-paint-shaker-batt . It's pretty good at getting paint in a condition to airbrush with.

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  2. Just found your blog whilst searching for some info on the Imperial Strongpoint. Having had a quick scan through, you've got some really good looking models.

    I also use Orkhide Shade as my basecoat for my Imperial Guard tanks, and Had the same worry when the new paints came out. Rather than trying the new Caliban Green, I went to my FLGS and bought some Vallejo Model Air Black Green, which according to their website is a match to Orkhide Shade.

    I've used this on a couple of tanks and I've got to say I'm really impressed. I've only got the GW spray gun, not a proper airbrush, but the paint comes out smooth, and being from the Model Air range doesn't require thinning, a problem I've encountered with Orkhide Shade.

    Hope this helps, or at least provides an idea. Keep up the great painting.

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